Well, this blog post is very late indeed… The political climate caused by a little known virus has meant that I have been otherwise occupied for the past two months. I am safe and well but still in Colombia due to the borders around the country closing. No more flights are leaving to Europe and I will need to stay put until at least the beginning of July. That being said I’m happy, well and have enough of the life necessities. Colombia is an interesting place to be during this time and the quarantine is currently until the 25th May. I still have to update my travels from Filadelfia to Cali but that will be done in due course as I will dedicate this post to life in Colombia during this strange period of world events.
On the 18th March we were cycling between Cali and Popayan hearing about the horrors occurring in Europe and knowing that we had to find somewhere to place ourselves where we would be safe and where we would have enough to eat. The risk of a country wide quarantine coming into place was high which would force us to stop wherever we were. We wanted to beat the gun and find somewhere interesting where we could keep learning and be able to do something physical. Luckily we cycled past a Finca named “Madre Tierra”. The owner Abeiro Sarria welcomed us into his project and allowed us to work in exchange for food and a bed. Although we were no longer completing our cycling project this seemed like the best possible situation for us during this time and we took up his offer.
The finca was a couple of acres in size and produced a range of vegetables as well as honey, jam, eggs and more. In addition it was a cultural centre that produced art. I started off building vegetable patches where I learnt how to grow potatoes, maíz, tomatoes all of which were organical and on a relatively small scale. Over the course of the nearly two months I was there I built composts, buildings, wooden art work and much more. My Spanish improved immensely as I worked with Colombian labourers and gardeners and as a life experience I count it as one of my richest. We did daily yoga sessions and regularly meditated which helped release stress and stretch out my body after so much time on the bike.
We cooked and ate together like a family, mainly vegetarian food but also the occasional chicken taken from the farm (and even the odd rabbit).
On the farm with us were a Swiss couple that added a social aspect to the confinement. We played cards, watched some adventure documentaries and generally opened up to each other. We shared this bizarre and scary moment together and I hope we will remain in contact in the future.
I learnt a range of Colombian dishes from “mesas” to “pandebonos” and more and felt as if I really lived like a Colombian. The humility and openness shown to me is something I will take forward with me into the future.
However, this period was not all rainbows and butterflies. Being a foreigner in a country like Colombia during an event like this isn’t easy. We faced certain instances of xenophobia against Europeans and the “European disease”. People here think of CV-19 as coming from Europe and during instances of panic people in general close up, become more insular and protect those they love over strangers. This is heightened against foreigners; all understandable things and not really for blame. I know that I myself would act in the same way in the UK. Especially during an event like a pandemic where social contact is illegalised.
I am very thankful for my safety over these past two months and owe a lot to those Colombians who welcomed me into their home during this very unsure time. The virus is not gone and this will continue for some time but I know that I am safe and well and will continue to be due to the generosity of those around me. Stay safe to all of you.
We woke up after a good night’s sleep in the lodge and slowly headed over to the main house where we were told breakfast would be served. It was about 8 o’clock and there was no sign of life. Hungry and with no other food available we decided to wait in the main house until the owner returned from whatever activity we presumed he’d left for (we also needed to pay him!) We waited around until 9h30 at which point we decided that we couldn’t wait too much longer as we needed to push onto Jardin. After speaking to the gardener we found out that the owner should be in a little hut next to the main house. We knocked on the door and a groggy man wearing only his underwear opened up. He dismissed us staying that breakfast would be served at 10ish. Colombia timings.
We the set off for Jardin. This was not a long cycle but was all uphill and the reason we decided to not carry on the day before. Baloo had a Couchsurfing contact ready that we were able to stay in his house. We cycled up the hill with Baloo’s speaker system on full blast to give motivation and around into Jardin at lunchtime. The climb was steep but paved, concrete roads are a dream when compared to the gravel tracks from the day before! After arriving into the town we chilled out in the park and let our legs rest as we waited for Xavier. We then grabbed a coffee and had some lunch.
Jardin in very pretty but after coming from Jericó it feels a little busier and less charming. The surrounding views are incredible in Jardin but Jerico is the nicer overall place in my opinion. Xavier is a French man living in Jardin starting up his own boulangerie shop. As he and a friend were busy DIYing Baloo and I went for a walk around the outskirts of the town. This was a rest day but even walking feels nice after a few days of cycling! The views from around the city are truly breathtaking and you can see a level of wealth in the town. There are some ecohouses situated just outside the city and we were called over by the incredibly friendly owners of both of them. They all had an air of Hippies but we’re so proud of where they lived and wanted to start conversations with us and explain the way in which they lived. These houses were designed and built by one woman who had a passion for buildings. They were beautifully crafted and I’d recommend anyone staying in the area to check them out!
We went back for dinner with Xavier (a chef by trade) and got some sleep.
Saturday 29th February I had forgotten that 2020 was a leap year so this day was a freebee. We got up and set off out of Jardin. The road started off on nice tarmac but still had a steeply inclined climb up into the mountains around Jardin. This soon changed to gravel and the climb kept going up and up and up. Up to over 3000m. There was very little in the way of restaurants along this road and the pace was slow with the weight of the bikes. A British couple passed us who had been travelling for two years from Canada down to Colombia in a big truck, we passed contacts details and they carried on. I admit that I was very jealous of their motor powered vehicle as my legs were slowly turning to jelly. Further up the climb two cyclists passed us in the other direction than we were heading, Juan insisted that we took his contact details and if we were ever in Santa Rosa de Cabal we should stay with him. “Mi casa es su casa!”
Finally as we got to the top of the climb (and just as the last of the nuts were being eaten and rain came over) we noticed a small restaurant. We entered and quickly ate the portions of food offered to us. A giant pig could smell the empty nut bag in my pannier and was aggressively attacking my bike. This at first made me laugh but a fully grown pig is a terrifying sight and I didn’t know how to stop it. My pathetic attempts to encourage the pig to leave by reasonably talking to it did not pay off. I few firm pushes and it finally left.
Aware of the time and that we would be losing light in a couple of hours we set off happy at the thought of downhill all the way to Riosucio. We had a couchsurfer waiting for us in a town slightly further on called Supia. The next 30km was a dream, darting down along dirt tracks using the power of gravity. My hands were sore from the breaking and I was worried for my bike (especially with an already broken pannier!) But the adrenaline rush was exhilarating. As we approached Riosucio the roads turn to asphalt and my bike (and my bum) was grateful for the lack of bumps. The descent continued all the way down to Supia where we met our Couchsurfing friend Andres.
Andres was a very gracious and open man who wanted to show us his city and his culture. The room Andes offered us for free was amazing! It felt like a hotel suite. We showered, watched some Spanish Simpsons and then went out for some food and a beer with our new amigo. The town of Supía is not at all touristy and it was nice to be somewhere where the real Colombia culture was present. Andres gave us a tour of the city whilst explaining about Colombia’s history and politics.
He then insisted that we tried a local dish which he said was amazing. The dish turned out to be a tripe sausage soup and was hard to stomach just before bed, but the hunger of the cycling made sure I ate every last bit. Finally the tired look in our eyes was noted by Andres and we went to bed around 11 o’clock shattered from the long cycling day. However before getting into bed Amdres offered to show us more of Supía the day after, we agreed to meet at 7am the next day.
Saturday 1st March
After an early rise we headed outside to meet Andres who took us for breakfast. He ordered our food for us which was the same tripe sausage from the day before but in the form of a curry. We slowly ate the food in front of the woman who had cooked it for us forcing each mouthful down. The flavour was incredibly strong and hard to stomach for breakfast. I used my drink to try to ease the food down and managed to eat enough so I wouldnt offend the woman…
He then took us on a half hour uphill cycle to meet some of his friends. The uphill cycle was hard on the legs but the fact that we left our bags in the room was much appreciated. He introduced us to a woman and her two sons who lived just outside the town and we had some more food and a coffee. The food was chicken and a soft of potatoe boiled in a banana leave. It was great and much appreciated!
They then offered us some Rhum but we declined given that it was 9am! Andres then took us over to a small panela factory. Panela is a huge part of Colombian culture and seems to be everywhere, it’s unrefined whole cane sugar. The Colombians have a very sweet tooth and it was interesting seeing how panela is produced given its importance in society.
Finally we made it clear that we needed to get going and we knew with all the descending we did the day before we needed to start reclimbing. We said our goodbyes and push off in the direction of Filadelfia.
I’m sat in a rooftop bar in Manizales writing this blog which, admittedly, is a little late. However, retracing my experiences over the last week or so with a sparkling water is a fun thing to do.
I woke up the morning of Wednesday 28th and left Fredonia. It was a quiet little town which I had thoroughly enjoyed but one night was enough to feel like you’d done everything that was available. I saw on my phone that I had a long climb to complete to get into Jericó so woke up relatively early to be on my way. The slightly frustrating thing about Colombia is that the height gained from every climb you complete is almost instantly lost just after with a steep descent down into the valley. This was never truer than for Fredonia to Jericó.
A quick pop in a Fredonian boulangerie and I was off. To my surprise the road kept climbing, to higher than the map had said. My legs were tired from the day before but I enjoyed the fact that I knew a descent was soon approaching. I cycled into a small town called Marsella and knew that this was the peak. I had a few well earned nuts and a swig of water and enjoyed the view available to me. Whilst waiting at the top of the hill I noticed a siamese dog; two dogs conjoined at the hip. I try to take notes as I go on my travels to help me when writing the blog as I am aware that after most cycling days I won’t have the energy to write up my memoirs. I did not however take a note of that dog yet it remains firmly in my mind as the memory of the beautiful mountain top view fades…
At last I was descending! A good 20km down a lovely concrete road that looked newly completed. I passed many cyclists on this road powering up much faster than I could ever hope with this heavy heavy bike. After that much downhill my brakes were molten hot and I noted the importance of keeping an eye on them. With this much climbing and descending my brakes will be used up quickly.
The sound of the insects was yet again deafening to the point where I was unable to stop and enjoy a pause without my head hurting. As I got down to the river a slight sense of dread came over me as I realised that I had a 1500m 25km climb up the mountains to Jericó. There was no other decently sized town on route so I knew that the climb had to be finished in whatever manner. If my legs failed me I could always hitch a lift with a passing lorry!
I starting climbing and thought it would be impossible, every 20m I was having to stop to catch my breath. My legs didn’t feel strong enough to lift the weight of the bike and some of the inclines were touching 10%, the sun was burning and my energy was low. However the traffic was quiet and the road was beautiful these two aspects gave me the mental strength to continue. As I grew into the climb it became easier and I felt like I had some momentum behind me. I stopped regularly to enjoy the views and motored on up the mountain.
I noticed that there were paragliders everywhere which was an amazing sight to see as I climbed the mountain. Alongside the paragliders were tens of what looked like vultures circling over the top of my head. It seemed like they could sense my lack of energy and thought an easy meal was near…
I stopped off to help a broken down motorcyclist who was grateful of my presence on the quiet road and finally arrived in Jerico. The town is truly beautiful. On my way to find a hotel someone called in English, asking if I was cycle touring. I replied yes and he said that he was also cycling through Colombia. His plan was to go onto Ushuaia. I took his number and went to shower.
That evening we grabbed dinner together and realised that we were going in the same direction. We were even using the same blog as our aid (weleaf – thank you!) We finished dinner and made plans to cycle to Jardin the next day. His name is Baloo and he is a Belgian cyclist who has taken a year to go from Colombia to the south of Argentina. Baloo was camping just up the road and that night the skies opened up. Thunder lightning and terrential downpour. I was happy to have a roof!
We met up the next day and set off in the direction of Jardín. The road out of Jerico is very very hard and we spent the first few kilometres pushing our bikes. The climbing is short but intense with inclines that I was unable to go up using only my legs. Hopefully these chicken legs will fill out by the end of my trip. The road was up and down and even the down is tough on the body. Your hands are constantly pulling down on the brakes leading to hand cramps and the shaking frame sends shocks through your body. It’s always an uneasy feeling hearing your bike rattling all over the place, I hope it holds out!
The first stop of the day was on a little bridge over a river and we enjoyed the donkeys wondering past us as we ate our nuts. The little aspects of this trip are what brings joy. We continued along the road and the shaking took its toll. My front pannier completely snapped. A metal pole connecting the bags to the bike was cut clean. This was a nightmare as I was far from anyone who could help and I knew that this bike had to last another 3 months, I was only two weeks in and already my pannier was broken. I emptied my front two bags into the back bags and managed to screw another part of the metal pannier rack to the bike. My bike is now very badly weight balanced with almost all the weight at the back. I felt unbalanced but you always do when you have changes on the bike.
We passed through Buenos Aires (Colombian) and tried to get some lunch. Nobody was however was serving food and we had to continue to the next large town. It was ash Wednesday and in the very conservative country of Colombia it seems everything shuts down to observe this day. In order to keep hunger at bay we stopped off at a beautiful view point to share an avocado. The road was beautiful but tough and we were enough we would be able to get to Jardin without having lunch. We arrived into Andes around 4 and headed straight for an Almuerzo del día. After finishing we didn’t have the strength to continue and decided to find somewhere in town to stay the night. We found a lodge that offered breakfast included and jumped at the opportunity to have a shower and a bed.
We wanted to cook for ourselves that night as the Colombian diet is lacking in vegetables. Being tired we looked for a simple solution in the supermarket and found pasta, courgette and a tomato sauce. The Colombian diet consists of a large amount of sugar and little to no vegetables. It was only after frying the vegetables and pouring the sauce on top of the pasta that we realised we had cucumber and ketchup. A disgusting meal that was impossible to finish. It might be better sticking to the meat, rice and beans offered in the restaurants!
After dinner we took a stroll in town. As it was ash Wednesday most people were wearing a black cross on their forehead. Andes is also a town that is not use to locals and walking through town brings lots of stares as I was wearing shorts and flip flops. The site of people turning their head to stare at you whilst they carry a black star on their head is eery. It felt like some sort of cult.
We returned to the lodge to get some sleep however just before getting to sleep I noticed a wasps nest by the window. The nest belonged to the Polistes carnifex and if worth a Google…
After a long cycle and a disappointing meal I was ready for bed. Tomorrow Jardin!
This has been a very busy last week or so hence the delay in updates to the blog…
I arrived into Medellin on Thursday evening after a fun trip on the bus. My passenger neighbour noticed my leg cycling sun tan line and wanted to talk about his love for cycling and all the bikes he owned. We spoke for a large portion of the journey which was nice although being crammed in the bus for 10 hours made me appreciate the bike. When I got to the bus station I decided to take a taxi to the hostel. I’d been told to not cycle at night time due to dangers from the traffic and from meeting people that you don’t want to bump into. I intend to stick to this rule. I therefore rolled off the bus put my bike together and headed to the taxi line. Almost everyone I’ve met in Colombia has been very friendly and open; the taxi drivers are no different. A small taxi pulled up and gestured to me that he’d like my custom. I can confirm that his taxi was too small. But “no hay problema Senor!” Before I could react he’d taken my bike and stuffed it into the boot half hanging out the back. He wrapped some rope around it and away we went.
The hostel was situated in El Poblado which is a very nice part of Medellin. I arrived and checked in and the standard hostel question of where I’d come from was asked to me. What I said “Sincelejo” the woman behind the counter looked shocked. She couldn’t understand how or why a tourist would have come from this little town in the middle of Colombia. This was the town that she was born and raised and she was excited that I’d seen where she was from. Cycling means you get to go through these small places.
The day after started with a tour of Comuna 13, this is famous for previously being the most dangerous area of Medellin. The danger was from the drug cartels who wanted to control the territory due to its good location between two main highways. It was a fascinating tour and I’d highly recommend. The tour guide grew up in the comuna and hearing his stories was both interesting and moving. The community was very warm and welcoming and it seemed a far cry from the horror stories you hear about.
Before returning to the hostel I went searching for cooking gas for when I camp. It’s not easy in Colombian to find this style of camping cooking but after hours of searching I found some in Nómedas Outdoor which is worth noting.
The following day I took a hike up to Park Arvi which involved going up a huge ski lift into the hills surrounding Medellin. The ski lift itself is worth the trip as the views of the city are incredible. As you get higher the townships become increasing poor to be point where at the top they are self contained villages. The government doesn’t recognise them as part of the city, due to the fact the city has grown so big so quickly, and they do not have access to electricity or water. Seeing the townships from the ski lift is a strange feeling as it feels a bit like you’re in a zoo peering in on their lives. However it’s still an interesting experience. In addition I had the best food I’d eaten in Colombia up by the park!
I managed to buy football tickets for the local derby match in Medellin. We went as a group of some people from the hostel and some friends I’d met on the Lost City trek. I’d heard that football supporters were crazily intense in Colombia but I could not prepare myself for the true experience. The football supporters sing for 90mins and there is no sitting. Even during half time the music is loud and overbearing. What starts off as an exciting feeling is quickly overshadowed by a tense feeling of having to be on your guard. Fights were breaking out in between supporters of the same team – imagine if the two came together… A very cool experience and something I would recommend however I think once is enough for me.
On my final day in Medellin (I’d stayed longer than I’d planned!) I decided to go to Guatape. I went with some people from my hostel and for 15,000 pesos (3 pound) you can get a bus to the town. This is a strange but beautiful place. The town is right next to this odd looking rock with sharp steep edges to the sides. A climb to the top reveals a superb view of the area around the town which is full of lakes which are clay pits that have been filled in water. It is stunning although full of tourists. The town itself is pretty and has many colourful houses which add a nice charm. Half a day here was sufficient for me.
After a few days in the city I was ready to push off on the bike and get some cycling done. I set off at 6am (as soon as the sun was rising) to try to escape Medellin before the traffic was too hectic. It worked and I was out the city with relatively little stress. I climbed up a hill into a small town on the outskirts. Here was the first time that I had seen day cyclists as the weather is too hot up north for the locals to ride. This region is why I came to Colombia to cycle and you can see the increased wealth, reduced heat, quiet roads (and more mountains!) make cycling a very popular sport. People were shouting a lot at me as I continued to climb out of the city and I couldn’t understand a word. I decided to presume it was positive and smiled and waved. I followed a tarmac road for a few kilometres before coming off onto my first dirt track. This road is the nicest cycling I have ever done in my life. The road was never too steep and the quality of the gravel was perfect. My bike was well adapted to the terrain. The path cut through the valleys in the mountains and I was quickly surrounded by only farmers living peacefully in the wilderness. It was hard to make much process as at every turn I had to stop and admire the views. At times the sounds of the birds and the insects became deafening as the monotone ringing gets in your head. Every few kilometres I’d stumble across another farm with dogs that love chasing the bike. They are however all bark and no bite.
I cycled into Fredonia after about 50km and 1000m climbing. I checked into a hotel and went to get some dinner. Here I bumped into a group of 15 or so cyclists who looked European. Turns out that they were from the UK and were completing a cycle from Bogota to Cartegena. They had carbon fibre racing bikes and were being supported by a team through the country. It looked fun and it was nice to meet other cyclists. They parted ways and I had another 2 pound Almuerzo del dia.
That night there was a huge storm with torrential rain and thunder. I took the opportunity to read and watch the night sky in the city. Tomorrow I cycle to Jericó.
Cartegena simply cannot be missed. It’s a beautiful old colonial city and a tourist hotspot for a reason. There is so much to do and see that I decided to have a rest day to enjoy the city.
I was awake early on sunday 16th Feb due to my routine of trying to avoid the midday sun and went on a free walking tour with a German girl I’d met in the hostel. During this tour I was approached by a Canadian woman. She heard I was English and, having family in the UK herself, wanted to start a conversation. What a wonderful, energetic and gracious lady. Turns out she had cycled over the past two weeks from Bogota to Cartegena and we connected over a love of cycling and active adventures. We went for a coffee and I grilled her for routes, tips and any further advice I could whilst trying not to appear needy. She was incredibly helpful and her Strava has been my bible over the last few days (thanks Jane!)
A key bit of advice she gave me (and something that I’d read about) is that the road into Medellin is very hot and very polluted. She recommended getting a bus to the more pretty routes that Colombia is famous for. I took note.
We the parted ways and I took the occasion to go to the barbers. Cycling in this weather with hair is a pain and I thought the less the better. Maybe those lost few grams will also help on the mountains… I explored the city further and had some street food. Then dinner with friends and bed for the early start the day after.
Up at 5 and out the door by 6. The plan was to head over in the direction of Santiago de Tolú where I knew there were some nice quiet coastal roads. Going out of Cartegena was crazy, the cars almost don’t move with traffic and the diesel smoke leaves a smog on the city edges. Luckily as a cyclist you can nip down the pavements. Either way it’s fascinating going past the markets and housing built up around the edge of Cartegena. It’s a world apart from the clean and proper city centre.
To leave Cartegena you have to climb a hill and it was here that I met three Belgian girls also cycling. We spoke and they told me that this was their first day on the bike going from Cartegena to Lima. The same route as me but over a longer time. As I’d been in the country a week I felt like an “experienced” rider so offered advice and then powered on up the hill. The speed at which I set off with was an unconscious attempt to impress the women and completely unsustainable, but being too proud I continued until I was around the corner and stopped for a puff and a drink.
You start to feel the heat around 10h30 and by 11 you feel trapped in a hot cocoon. Temperatures float around 40°C and this continues through until 16h. Stopping regularly is a must which slows you down but also leads to more juice breaks and opportunities to meet locals in the villages. The roads are relatively quiet and restaurants are plentiful. Lunch was another almuerzo del dia for less than £2, it’s more expensive to cook for yourself than to eat out and the food was good that day. That being said it’s not diverse and does not include vegetables (only salad which I avoid as it’s usually washed in tap water and I really want to not get ill on the bike). More rice plantain and chicken. My vitamin intake mainly comes from the fruit from fruit stalls. In the bigger cities there is more occasion to eat vegetables.
That day the temperature did not lay off and my water intake was large. Nuts, bananas and raisons help keep up the energy levels and replenish the lost electrolytes. My pace has dropped and even with the early starts my day distances are getting less and less. You are never far away from a shop or restaurant for any water or snacks you need.
A juice break in the afternoon lead to me meeting a young couple. They could not believe that I was cycling the distance I was over Colombia. I have a feeling that a lot of people in these villages don’t travel far from their town and therefore are shocked that someone would do it by bike. They also asked me to describe the UK. This has been quite a common talking point with Colombians and they seem very interested in learning about other countries. I describe it as being cold and full of pale people.
I manage to get through the San Onofre but cannot go any further. I am physically drained and very hot. I check into a hostel, shower and explore the town. This is a small town on the road from Cartegena to Medellin but looks like it has recently benefitted from the increase in tourism at the local beach Rincón del Mar. A huge church dominates the town but there are lots of shops and restaurants about. People seem to meet in the centre of these towns in the evenings to have a beer, play cards and talk. There’s a very peaceful yet lively ambiance which you don’t get much in the UK. The warm evenings help. I have dinner in a small restaurant owned by a couple who tell me about all the other cyclists who have passed through Onofre. Most of them it seems go from Alaska to Ushuaia.
With Rincón del Mar just around the corner I changed plans and decided to spend the next day at the beach. I got up, had breakfast, debated a small child on whether Messi or Ronaldo was better and set off on the Rocky road to the sea.
It’s a beautiful little village that could quite easily boom from tourism over the next few years. I met up with a friend from the Lost City tour, we chilled and had a snorkel. I saw 0 fish.
In the evening I took the chance to do a boat trip to go see the bioluminescence algae. We set off in the evening on a tiny boat (6 onboard) towards the far end of the beach, here we picked the boats out the water and carried them over land to a small tunnel in the plantation on the other side of the bay. We got back in the boats and headed down the tunnel which lead to a fairly large lagoon. By now the sun has set and it was dark. We go into the water which is about bath temperature and swim in the algae. You don’t see the algae until you move your body through the water but when you do it’s a beautiful dull blue. As it’s so dark the only light comes from the stars and the algae, the two merge and appear as one continuous star system around you. It’s magical.
The next day was another early start as I tried to push on further towards Medellin. I left the hostel at 6 again but that morning the air was particularly damp. I couldn’t see from my cycling glasses due to the moisture in the air and struggled to use my phone. My bike didn’t feel right so I stopped to tighten the handlebars, again I had many offers of help. One guy ran up to me, took my Allen key from my hand and started loosening my front brakes. Everyone here wants to help so much that they will sometimes refuse to admit they don’t understand the problem. It can be both charming and frustrating. The bike is now running very good although I think I might get it checked over in Medellin in any case. The roads in Colombia are not complicated and it’s easy to stay on track, I bought from a coffee from a guy on the side of the road and pushed on to try get get as much millage in before the heat started.
I bought some bananas en route and when I told the guy to keep the change he gave me a hug. It’s still surprising to me how far my money goes. I cycle past another European couple going in the other direction.
After what feels like a draining hill I emter into a city called Sincelejo. This was not my planned destination but the heat has really got to me today. In addition the road keepa getting busier and busier. I’ve decided to bus over to Medellin to get stuck into the good cycling in the mountains. I think I’ve seen the best of the cycling up north and could do with some milder weather.
I spend the evening exploring the city which is again dominated by a huge church. I ate a Salchipapa which is a Peruvian fast food dish and did some sightseeing.
Tomorrow I’ll be catching the bus and moving towards the hills.
My apologies for the lack of updates on this blog, my first week in Colombia has been busy and tiring. I think I’ll stick to weekly posts but will update when I have the time and when I have enough content to provide.
Juice stops are vital
Firstly Colombian is hot. At least on the North coast. This is the dry season which means that the humidity is not the problem, however the midday sun can get as hot as 40° and with little to no shade on the Caribbean coast you have to be prepared. I carry at least 4 litres of water per day and reapply suncream every few hours. That being said the horrendous cycling tan line is coming along well. To limit this shirtless cycling in the late afternoon is a must.
My trusty stead
Now lets go back to day one. The flight from London to Bogota was fine and the stress of getting the bike on the flight to Santa Marta was reduced when a friendly Colombian man offered to help me. This was of course for a fee but I feel that the 2 pounds I paid was a good deal. Next into Santa Marta. Colombians love cycling and everyone wants to offer advice or talk to you when you have a bike. When arriving into the airport I had a thermal shock when compared to the weather I left behind in London. A taxi driver offered to help adjust my brakes and we spoke about the Tour de France. The Spanish is functional. A short cycle to Dreamer Hostel and I was ready for a beer.
At the hostel I signed up for the Lost City trek. This four day tour would delay the start of my cycling adventure but this trip for me is about more than just the bike. I also ended up meeting people that became friends and who I met up with over and over again on the North coast. This trek is special, you hike over two days through the National Park of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta until you stumble across an ancient city in the mountains lost for hundreds of years before being discovered and pillaged for its gold. The beauty of seeing a lost civilisation high up in the jungle is truly breathtaking and I cannot recommend the tour enough.
I was dropped back off at my hostel on Thursday where I cleaned myself, studied some Spanish and heading into town with some friends I’d met on the tour. Tomorrow was the first of the cycling days and I was itching to start.
After leaving around 9am I headed up the highway towards Barranquilla. This road is fun and it has a real Caribbean vibe; loud music is played in all of the little villages which is perfect for me on the bike but I cannot imagine being in the houses. It is deafening. Fresh fruit and juices are sold every few metres which is perfect for a sugar boost on the bike. Children run up shouting “Quintana!” and you receive lots of thumbs up. The Colombian people are warm and open. My taxi driver friend from the first day drove past me honking and cheering. My spirits are high and my legs feel good.
Although there is a party vibe along this coast it is also dry, hot and barren. After a 40km cycle into a headwind I decided to stop off at a little shop just outside of Barranquilla for a drink and a snack. A cute kid sat next to me as I ate my plantain crisps (the only available food). I presumed he was the son of the shop owner so asked if I could offer him some crisps which he replied of course. The child then snatched my crisps and ran away. I’d have to make do with only half a pack!
Carrying on towards Barranquilla saw me crossing a huge bridge and with a wonderful view of the city. I found a cycle lane going into the city which just stopped abruptly at one point. A bunch of local kids ran over and helped me pick up my bike to get it back on the road, this is not the first time I have received help from strangers and I don’t think the last. I was told that this was the birth place of Shakira but the busy streets and high levels of pollution made entry into the city hot and dirty. I however loved the experience and find being in cities fascinating. Although I stood out as a pasty white tourist I felt safe. My Hostel for the night was Quintana Bacana a perfect little family run hostel where I shared a room with French people. So far on this trip I have met many French people and been speaking a lot of French. Much more than the Spanish I was hoping to learn…
It was carnival week in Barranquilla and you could feel the energy in the city. My Hostel roommates were ready to party and invited me for drinks and shots. I however declinded and went searching for food. I wasn’t in the mood to drink after 105km on the bike, I got a recommendation for food and headed out. The hostel recommended a seafood cocktail restaurant around the corner. The waitress was interested in me and what I was doing in Barranquilla, we spoke whilst I ate. My Spanish is improving. After eating I went over to see the Carnival and the atmosphere was crazy. It felt a little intense but was hugely exciting and colourful. The streets were filled with people dancing and partying. I explored the city and went back for an early night.
Saturday I had planned a big cycle to Cartegena to meet up with friends from the trek. This was around a 130km trip. I asked for advice from the hostel about what routes to take and the owner (a huge cycle fan of course) told me about some of the best roads in the country. He then requested that I took a picture in front of his hostel to be used on their website. I set off at 8am and remember having sore legs and a sore bum. 130km seemed like too far and I doubted I’d be able to do it under the hot sun. As soon as I got out of the city however my muscles had relaxed and I found my rhythm. I cycled through to a stop off where I bought some fresh mango and made friends with a dog. My experience with dogs so far has been good although I am expecting more annoying ones as I venture towards Peru.
I found a small restaurant on the way which looked welcoming and I needed a break from the sun. A man ran out to greet me and was almost overly friendly explaining to me all that he had. I guess he really wanted my custom. I took the Almuerzo del dia: a soup followed by chicken and rice, I then bought a juice on top for a grand total of 5 pounds. After some small talk the man paused and said “eres d’Argentina”? This is either an insult to the Argentinians or my Spanish is improving !
The rest of the journey was more peaceful as the sun’s heat calmed down. I passed by more fruit stalls and as I approached Cartegena my mood was good. I’d planned dinner with friends in the city and this motivated me on. Cartegena is huge, it’s bigger than I anticipated at least. Cycling into it is at first shocking, the slums on the outskirts are poor and dirty. The kids are still happy but they always are and the adults had music blaring away like all along the coast. People are dancing. Again I felt very safe going through here but I would not like to be here at night. Luckily my hostel is in the city centre.
I cycle along the beachfront and need help getting over a sand dune formed by the strong winds blowing in from the coast. Again a man runs up to me to help, my bike is over 30kg and I needed the help. He shakes my hand and I continue. As I cycle up to the Pachamama hostel I am hot, sweaty and very dirty. Guess who I see waving at me from the reception, my friends from the tour. This gives me energy and I quickly shower to join them for dinner. A couple of beers later and I feel as good as new. I’ve noted that my hair is a bit hot in the sun. Maybe I’ll shave it if tomorrow.
Some quiet beers on the balcony and then time for bed.
(This is a limited collection of my photos so make sure to follow my Instagram: “onmysaddlesouthamerica”)
The week in the UK gave me an opportunity to see friends and family whilst also preparing for the trip ahead. The bike has gone through many upgrades to hopefully make it durable to the South American roads although I’ve been advised that Colombia roads are lovely to cycle. A dynamo has been added to the front wheel which is wired up to a USB connecter I keep in a water-proof bag. In addition the tyres have been beefed up with Schwalbe Marathon Plus 32c.
I have decided to take 6 months to cycle my way from the North of Colombia to the South of Peru. Starting in Santa Marta to expore the national park of Tayrona, then descending through the coffee region in the middle of Colombia I am hoping to test my legs and my Spanish. After Colombia I will head through the volcanos of Ecuador and onto the mountains of Peru.
I’ve focussed on a relatively light packing list considering on previous cycle trips I have taken far too much useless gear leading to unecessary weight. I will post my packing list in a separate post.
Cycling South America 